MABUHAY!
I did a weekend construction project of installing tiles in my garage. Tiles are commonly installed in 2 ways. The most common way is the THIN-SET INSTALLATION wherein the tilesetter mason will apply a 6mm to 10mm tile adhesive using a notched trowel. This is applicable for flooring with concrete topping and the finished level is already established. Another method is the DRY PACK INSTALLATION. This is applicable for the finished floor level of more than 25mm thickness of mortar grout.
TILE INSTALLATION SHOP DRAWING
Careful study must be done to determine the final layout of the tiles. First to consider is the tile setting point (TSP) which is the first tile to be installed by the tile setter mason. The TSP will affect the rest of the tile layout especially if your tiles have floor pattern design. For this particular project, I added a raised floor level with a floor drain to place my washing machine. I also place the exact location of the hose bibb/faucet. This drawing will aid you in counting how many tiles you will purchase. Make sure to add 3 to 5% additional pieces to your quantity for breakage and attic stock. For the dry-mix mortar grout, the ratio is 1 bag of Portland Cement (40 kg) to 3 cubic feet of fine sand aggregates.
The tile installation shop drawing |
MATERIALS
For this particular project, the materials to be used are:- 300 X 300mm Ceramic floor tiles with two varied shades for the field and two different designs for the border.
- Fine sand aggregates-already screened
- Portland Cement- 40kgs/bag
- Tile Adhesive
- Tile Grout
- Clean water
Vibro sand and Portland cement |
Tile adhesives |
300 X 300 ceramic tile |
Tools to be used are:
- Small angle grinder with 4" tile cutter disk
- 24 inches Level Bar
- Tape meter
- Nylon string guide
- Level hose
- Rubber mallet
- Tile spacer- (optional)
- Notched Trowel
Tape measure and angle grinder |
METHODOLOGY
- Layout the floor to establish the reference dimension as per the tile installation layout drawing.
- Establish the perimeter finish floor level. This will determine the thickness of the mortar grout.
CLICK the LINK to READ the related article: Tile Installation: Notched Trowel Comb Technique
- Prepare the dry-mix combination of cement and sand aggregates to be used as mortar grout. For the dry-mix mortar grout, the ratio is 1 bag of Portland Cement (40 kg) to 3 cubic feet of fine sand aggregates. When thoroughly mixed, add water slowly then mix again to attain the desired result.
- Establish the tile setting point (TSP). The TSP is the first tile to be installed serving as the primary guide for the vertical and horizontal layer and eventually the rest of the installation. Careful study must be done for the final location of the TSP. Wrong placement of the TSP will result in an off-centered layout meaning your edges will not be typical or most likely tapered or slanting edges.
- Dampen the floor surface with clean water. Pour cement grout. Place the dry mix mortar to install the TSP with tile adhesive using a notched trowel. Secure the horizontal and vertical layout of the TSP as well as the level by carefully hammering with a rubber mallet.
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- Install the succeeding tile layers with 2mm spacing. If you have 2 tile setter masons, they can install the vertical and horizontal layers simultaneously.
- Always check the level with the level bar layer after layer.
- Put in place first the embedded pipes when doing the raised flooring for the washing machine.
CLICK the LINK to READ the related article: Work Inter-Phase: Why Proper Coordination Very is Critical in Construction
- Complete the installation of tiles between the wall edges. Since this is a garage, a ramp is needed.
- Clean the surface of the tiles from concrete splatter from time to time. When concrete dries on the tile surface, it will be very difficult to clean. If the concrete dries and is removed, it leaves a disgusting dark spot on the tile surface. Allow the concrete mortar grout to cure for 24 hours before applying the grout.
- Our weekend project will never be complete without my wife's serving a special dish for our lunch and spaghetti for our break-time snack.
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ReplyDeleteThank you for your interest with my article - TILE INSTALLATION: CONCRETE DRY PACK METHOD. I hope you find the content helpful to you.
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ReplyDeleteThanks for the informative article on dry pack tile installation! I found the breakdown of the materials needed and the steps involved in the process to be very helpful.
ReplyDeleteI'm particularly interested in using this method for areas with uneven floors, as you mentioned it creates a more durable floor compared to the thin-set method.
In your experience, is there a significant difference in the drying time between dry-pack and thin-set methods? Are there any other considerations I should take into account when deciding between dry-pack and thin-set methods for uneven floors?
Hi Matt, thank you for your interest with my article.
DeleteAs for the drying time, there is no significant difference in regards with the drying time for both methods. However, foot traffic, drilling, or any form of vibration for both methods must be avoided minimum of 7 days so as not to disturb the curing & maintain good adhesion. For dry pack method, since it is concrete-based, avoid concentrated heavy load minimum of 28 days.
Just take into consideration the floor finish level of the adjacent rooms. It is helpful to have a floor finish layout showing the drops or step-up of all the other rooms in reference with your floor elevation. Dry pack method is best for substrate thickness minimum of 21mm. So if you will install tles in your living room & wood or vinyl flooring on other adjacent room, the thickness of their substrate will vary. This is a little bit technical so I suggest that you discuss this matter with your tilesetter foreman or if possible, with an architect to guide you before the installation to avoid unnecessary repair works.
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