Tuesday, January 31, 2017

QUALITY ISSUE: CONCRETE HAIRLINE CRACKS

January 31, 2017
MABUHAY!

Another quality issue that requires a careful study on what rectification method to apply is the concrete hairline cracks. This is the most common punch list for rectification during hand-over phase of a building construction. Concrete has relatively high compressive strength, but significantly lower in tensile strength, and as such is usually reinforced with materials that are strong in tension (often steel). The elasticity of concrete is relatively constant at low-stress levels but starts decreasing at higher stress levels as matrix cracking develops. Concrete has a very low coefficient of thermal expansion, and as it matures concrete shrinks. All concrete structures will crack to some extent, due to shrinkage and tension. Concrete hairline cracks manifest in many ways:

HAIRLINE CRACKS ON CONCRETE SLAB



HAIRLINE CRACKS ON CONCRETE PLASTER


CLICK the LINK to READ the related article: Concrete Construction Productivity Bootcamp 2018

HAIRLINE CRACKS ON CONCRETE TOPPING

HAIRLINE CRACKS ON CONCRETE BEAMS


HAIRLINE CRACKS ON CONCRETE PRECAST

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ROOT CAUSES
HAIRLINE CRACKS ON CONCRETE SLAB
  • Improper curing. When the concrete slab already hardened, it must be cured with clean water 7 consecutive days. When concreting during summer or very hot weather, it will be very helpful cover the concrete slab with jute sack or polyethylene sheet when curing it with water to prevent rapid evaporation.
  • Premature removal of shoring. During stripping of forms, when the concrete did not attain yet the specified curing period, additional shoring is needed especially at midspan.

HAIRLINE CRACKS ON CONCRETE PLASTER
  • Not following the specified design mix ratio for cement and fine aggregates usually 1 bag of Portland cement (40kgs/bag) per 3 cu ft of white screened sand.
  • putting too much water on the plaster mix
  • Improper restoration of plastering after chipping works to embed mechanical, electrical, plumbing and fire protection (MEPF) roughing-ins.

HAIRLINE CRACKS ON CONCRETE TOPPING
  • Improper curing. When the concrete topping already hardened, it must also be cured with clean water 7 consecutive days, especially on exterior decks.
  • Lack of wire mesh or metal lathe reinforcement for 50mm thickness and above.

HAIRLINE CRACKS ON CONCRETE BEAMS
  • Premature removal of shoring. During stripping of forms, when the concrete did not attain yet the curing period, additional shoring is needed especially at midspan.

HAIRLINE CRACKS ON CONCRETE PRECAST
  • Improper curing. When the concrete precast already hardened, it must also be cured with clean water 7 consecutive days.
  • Improper handling during transportation to the job site or precast yard.

REPAIR METHODOLOGY
EPOXY INJECTION - this repair method is being used when hairline cracks penetrate through and through. Also, if there is a need for a watertight solution like a basement, roof decks, and exterior walls, this method offers the best solution.

CRACK MAPPING
It is very useful to have a crack mapping plan to estimate the quantity to be rectified and verify the priority areas to be injected.


EPOXY INJECTION EQUIPMENT

EPOXY INJECTION CHEMICAL
For this particular repair work, we used Sealbond 218-P Pressure injection epoxy.


REPAIR METHOD




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CONCRETE EPOXY PLUG- this rectification method is very effective for hairline cracks within the interior and exterior sides of the building. The method statement to be followed is as follows:

1.  Prepare a crack mapping plan to identify the key area to be rectified.
2.      On wall or soffit of the concrete slab, widen the spotted hairline cracks for at least 2mm-3mm V-shaped groove by grinding or manual chipping.
3.      Clean the groove by brushing off excess concrete and dust.
4.      Dampen the affected surface with clean water using a sponge or clean rag.
5.      Patch the groove with 1 part Portland cement mixed with Pioneer Pro Concrete Epoxy HV. Let it cure at least 4-6 hours.
6.      Finish the concrete surface as specified.

CONCRETE EPOXY PLUG AT EXTERIOR PARAPET WALL



CONCRETE EPOXY PLUG AT ROOF DECK'S TOPPING
After plugging the deck, we conducted a flood test to verify if the water will still penetrate through the patch. No leak was found.






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CONCRETE EPOXY PLUG AT INTERIOR PLASTERED WALL
This is a quick and best solution for crack rectification on interior plastered wall with painting works. The Portland cement mixed with concrete epoxy cures fast and is compatible with all kinds of paints.
This patching mixture of cement and concrete epoxy cures quickly say 1 hour.

You can now apply the masonry putty for surface correction.

After the masonry putty dries, use sanding paper to make the surface even.

Painting of the primer coat.

Apply the finishing coat for the completion of rectification.
CONCRETE EPOXY PLUG AT SLAB SOFFIT

CONCRETE EPOXY HIGH VISCOSITY MIXED WITH PORTLAND CEMENT
There are many concrete epoxies available in the market, but for this particular project, we used Pioneer Pro Concrete Epoxy High Viscosity (HV).




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Saturday, January 28, 2017

TRIP TO THAILAND DAY 4

September 18, 2016
MABUHAY!

This is the fourth and final day of our company sponsored travel in the beautiful city of Bangkok, Thailand, a photo journal of our best moments together.

Thursday, January 26, 2017

TRIP TO THAILAND DAY 3

September 17, 2016
MABUHAY!
This is a photo journal of our 3rd-day travel in Bangkok, Thailand with lots of smile and excitement. Today's itinerary includes boat tour at Chaoprya River and canals, visit Wat Arun temple (Temple of the Dawn), Royal Grand Palace, jewelry factory, international buffet lunch and dinner at Somboon restaurant.

Tuesday, January 24, 2017

TRIP TO THAILAND DAY 2

September 16, 2016
MABUHAY!
This is a photo journal of our company outing travel to Thailand featuring our adventure of riding elephants, boat ride on a floating market, cultural show and river cruise.

Sunday, January 22, 2017

Thursday, January 19, 2017

TILE INSTALLATION: CONCRETE DRY PACK METHOD

June 14, 2016
MABUHAY!
I did a weekend construction project of installing tiles in my garage. Tiles are commonly installed in 2 ways. The most common way is the THIN-SET INSTALLATION wherein the tilesetter mason will apply a 6mm to 10mm tile adhesive using a notched trowel. This is applicable for flooring with concrete topping and the finished level is already established. Another method is the DRY PACK INSTALLATION. This is applicable for the finished floor level of more than 25mm thickness of mortar grout.

TILE INSTALLATION SHOP DRAWING
Careful study must be done to determine the final layout of the tiles. First to consider is the tile setting point (TSP) which is the first tile to be installed by the tile setter mason. The TSP will affect the rest of the tile layout especially if your tiles have floor pattern design. For this particular project, I added a raised floor level with a floor drain to place my washing machine. I also place the exact location of the hose bibb/faucet. This drawing will aid you in counting how many tiles you will purchase. Make sure to add 3 to 5% additional pieces to your quantity for breakage and attic stock. For the dry-mix mortar grout, the ratio is 1 bag of Portland Cement (40 kg) to 3 cubic feet of fine sand aggregates.

The tile installation shop drawing

MATERIALS
For this particular project, the materials to be used are:

  • 300 X 300mm Ceramic floor tiles with two varied shades for the field and two different designs for the border.
  • Fine sand aggregates-already screened
  • Portland Cement- 40kgs/bag
  • Tile Adhesive
  • Tile Grout
  • Clean water
Vibro sand and Portland cement

Tile adhesives

300 X 300 ceramic tile 
Tools to be used are:
  • Small angle grinder with 4" tile cutter disk
  • 24 inches Level Bar
  • Tape meter
  • Nylon string guide
  • Level hose
  • Rubber mallet
  • Tile spacer- (optional)
  • Notched Trowel
Tape measure and angle grinder
METHODOLOGY
  • Layout the floor to establish the reference dimension as per the tile installation layout drawing.
  • Establish the perimeter finish floor level. This will determine the thickness of the mortar grout.




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  • Prepare the dry-mix combination of cement and sand aggregates to be used as mortar grout. For the dry-mix mortar grout, the ratio is 1 bag of Portland Cement (40 kg) to 3 cubic feet of fine sand aggregates. When thoroughly mixed, add water slowly then mix again to attain the desired result. 



  • Establish the tile setting point (TSP). The TSP is the first tile to be installed serving as the primary guide for the vertical and horizontal layer and eventually the rest of the installation. Careful study must be done for the final location of the TSP. Wrong placement of the TSP will result in an off-centered layout meaning your edges will not be typical or most likely tapered or slanting edges.
  • Dampen the floor surface with clean water. Pour cement grout. Place the dry mix mortar to install the TSP with tile adhesive using a notched trowel. Secure the horizontal and vertical layout of the TSP as well as the level by carefully hammering with a rubber mallet.




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  • Install the succeeding tile layers with 2mm spacing. If you have 2 tile setter masons, they can install the vertical and horizontal layers simultaneously.


  • Always check the level with the level bar layer after layer.


  • Continue the tile installation until reaching the wall edge.


  • Put in place first the embedded pipes when doing the raised flooring for the washing machine.




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  • Complete the installation of tiles between the wall edges. Since this is a garage, a ramp is needed. 




  • Clean the surface of the tiles from concrete splatter from time to time. When concrete dries on the tile surface, it will be very difficult to clean. If the concrete dries and is removed, it leaves a disgusting dark spot on the tile surface. Allow the concrete mortar grout to cure for 24 hours before applying the grout.


  • Our weekend project will never be complete without my wife's serving a special dish for our lunch and spaghetti for our break-time snack.





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