BUILDER'S JOURNAL: DIY Budget Travel to South Korea Day 6

July 15, 2024

Mabuhay!

This is a photo and video journal of Day 6 of our DIY budget travel to the beautiful country of South Korea, featuring our visit to the historic village of Bukchon.

Breakfast

We have a simple breakfast of boiled eggs, Korean noodles, rice & coffee.

Bus ride from Sinseol-dong to Bukchon Village

Discover Bukchon Village

Bukchon Hanok Village in Seoul is a historic neighborhood known for its architectural legacy of traditional Korean houses (hanok), many of which date back to the Joseon Dynasty (14th–19th centuries). These hanoks were originally the residences of aristocrats and high-ranking officials, strategically located between two important palaces—Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung—symbolizing prestige and cultural heritage. The village’s narrow alleys, tiled roofs, and wooden-framed structures embody classic Korean urban housing design.

Bukchon began to attract wider attention in the late 1990s and early 2000s, when the Seoul Metropolitan Government promoted it as a cultural heritage site. Restoration projects preserved the hanoks, while some were converted into cultural centers, tea houses, guesthouses, and workshops. Its unique blend of living tradition and preserved architecture quickly made it a popular tourist attraction, especially with the rise of interest in Korean culture.

The tourism boom, however, has had mixed impacts. On one hand, it brought economic benefits, cultural awareness, and funding for conservation. On the other hand, it created tension with residents who still live in the hanoks, as heavy foot traffic, noise, and lack of privacy disrupted daily life. In response, local authorities implemented visitor guidelines, such as quiet hours and restricted access to certain alleys, to balance cultural preservation, community well-being, and tourism demand.

Jongmyo Shrine

Nestled quietly in the bustling heart of Seoul, away from the grandeur of neighboring palaces, sits the Jongmyo Shrine. This UNESCO World Heritage site is more than just a historical landmark; it’s a portal to Korea's rich Confucian past, offering a serene and profound glimpse into the spiritual life of the Joseon dynasty.

A Pillar of Korean History
Established in 1395 by King Taejo, the founder of the Joseon dynasty, Jongmyo was the primary place of worship for the royal family. It was built to house the ancestral spirit tablets of the dynasty's deceased kings and queens, a practice deeply rooted in Confucianism. While the original shrine was destroyed during a Japanese invasion in the late 16th century, it was meticulously rebuilt in the early 17th century and has been carefully preserved ever since. The shrine's continued existence and the meticulous recording of its rituals showcase the enduring legacy of ancestral worship in Korean culture, which remains a core Confucian value.

On the outer wall of Jongmyo Shrine, there are 85 foundation stones indicating the years when repairs were made. 76 of them are carved to indicate a year in the sexagenary cycle (干支, ganji) following the traditional rules of the Joseon Dynasty, and 9 of them are carved with “Showa (昭和),” the era name of Japanese emperor Hirohito (裕仁)。

After Japan's forced annexation of Korea, the Japanese colonial government-general undertook road construction with an intention of severing the veins of terrestrial energy that ran from Changdeokgung and Changgyeonggung Palaces and on to Jongmyo Shrine, and this greatly damaged the original layout of the area. Moreover, the Japanese colonial government engraved “Showa (昭和)” on the reconstructed walls.

Since these engraved stones are a remnant reflecting the dishonorable history of the Japanese colonial rule, we intend to record their history as an alarming lesson for future generations.

Architectural Simplicity and Spiritual Significance
Unlike the ornate and colorful palaces of Seoul, Jongmyo Shrine's architecture is characterized by its quiet grandeur and subtle elegance. The design, which strictly follows Confucian principles, emphasizes function and spiritual importance over extravagance.

Long, elegant halls: The main hall, Jeongjeon, is an incredibly long, single wooden structure, housing the spirit tablets of the most important kings and queens. A smaller, auxiliary hall, Yeongnyeongjeon, serves the same purpose for other royals. The uniform, understated architecture emphasizes the spiritual importance of the ancestral tablets over individual kings.
Contrasting textures: The plain, red-walled buildings with their sweeping tiled roofs are set against a vast, rough-stoned courtyard known as the Woldae. This stark, empty space was designed to focus the minds of the ritual participants, including the king, on the occasion's solemnity.

Lee Sang Je (Pen-named Wolnam) was born in Seocheon-gun, Chungcheongnam-do in 1850. As a member of the Inspection Mission to Japan (Josa Sichaldan), Lee first came into contact with enlightenment ideas (Gaehwa Sasang) in 1881. Together with Seo Jae-pil and other patriots, he founded the Independence Association in 1896, published the first Korean newspaper (Dongnipsinmun), and also led the People's Joint Association, which aimed to save the country through the enlightenment movement.

When Imperial Japan coerced the Korean Empire into signing the grossly unequal Japan-Korea Treaty of 1905 and deprived Korea of its diplomatic sovereignty, Lee Sang Je actively supported the Patriotic Enlightenment Movement together with Christian activists. In 1913, after becoming the first Korean head of general affairs at the Hwangsung Young Men's Christian Association, he played a decisive role in crushing the political maneuvering to make Korean Christian circles pro-Japanese and in leading the Korean Christian community to the side with the movement to restore national sovereignty.

During the March 1st Movement in 1919, Lee was arrested by the Japanese on charges of leading the Christian independence campaign. Then, in 1924, when he was appointed as president of the Chosun Ilbo, he blocked the newly emerging idea of autonomy and sought to establish complete national independence as the national movement line.

In 1927, Lee Sang Je was appointed as the chairman of the Singanhoe (New Trunk Association) and died while fighting for national independence against Japan. In 1962, Lee Sang Je was posthumously awarded the Presidential Medal of the Order of Merit for the National Foundation. This statue was erected on April 10, 1986, by the Seoul YMCA's Committee for the Foundation of a Statue of Lee Sang Je to commemorate his noble deeds and patriotic spirit.

The

Hyundai Duty Free store

in Dongdaemun, Seoul, or potentially part of a larger shopping complex like

Doota Mall

in Dongdaemun. The "노래방" (noraebang/karaoke) sign and "12 F" suggest it houses various commercial activities across multiple floors.

The person in the image is Admiral Yi Sun-sin (이순신).

The Korean caption "이순신 장군" (Yi Sun-sin Janggun) translates to "Admiral Yi Sun-sin" or "General Yi Sun-sin" in English.

Yi Sun-sin was a renowned Korean admiral and military general during the Joseon Dynasty, famous for his victories against the Japanese navy during the Imjin War (1592-1598). He is considered a national hero in Korea.

Gwanghamun Square

The statue in the image depicts Yeom Sang-seop (염상섭), a celebrated modern Korean novelist. The sitting posture, specifically referred to as a "seated statue" or "좌상 (jwajwa-sang)" in Korean, is meant to honor his contributions to modern Korean literature and create an inviting, contemplative atmosphere for visitors to the Kyobo Bookstore in Gwanghwamun, Seoul, outside of which it is located.

The Korean text written on the large stones in the background translates to:

"가람은 책을 (Books by scholars)
책은 사람을 (Books for people)
산들고 (cherished and)
만든다 (created)."

Essentially, it conveys the idea that "Scholars create books, and books shape people," or "People create books, and books create people". This inscription highlights the profound and reciprocal relationship between authors, books, and readers, reflecting the mission and spirit of a prominent bookstore like Kyobo

Admiral Yi Sun-sin

The battleship displayed in Gwanghwamun Square in Seoul is a replica of a Geobukseon (거북선), also famously known as a Turtle Ship.

Here's a brief description:

Historical Significance: These unique warships were used by the Korean Joseon Navy during the Joseon Dynasty, most notably under Admiral Yi Sun-sin during the Imjin War (Japanese invasions) in the late 16th century.
Design: The ship's name, "turtle ship," comes from its protective, shell-like covering, which some historians have described as an early ironclad armor. The bow often featured a dragon's head, which could release smoke to disorient enemies.
Armament: Turtle ships were equipped with numerous cannons and designed to be maneuverable, often utilizing both oars and sails. The deck was fitted with spikes or sharp objects to deter enemy boarding attempts.