BUILDER'S JOURNAL: DIY Budget Travel to South Korea Day 2

July 11, 2024

Mabuhay!

This is a photo and video journal of Day 2 of our DIY budget trip to the beautiful country of South Korea, featuring our visit to the magnificent Changdeokgung Palace.

Dongdaemun Guesthouse

The utility areas, such as the kitchen and laundry, are compact, while the roof deck serves as a drying area. Every space is thoughtfully designed with a purpose, ensuring that guests can make the most of their limited stay in South Korea.

Guests leave behind a currency note from their home country as a souvenir.

Sinseoldong Station

This is the train and bus station, which is very near our accommodation. The obvious landmark to this station is the LED flag of South Korea displayed in front of the building on the other side of the street.

Getting There

Public transportation in Korea

This card is reloadable at 7-11 and other establishments. It can be used for both buses and trains.

While riding the bus, my camera captured a Filipino shop in the street of Seoul.

Donhwamun Gate

The Donhwamun Gate is the main gate of Changdeokgung Palace in Seoul, Korea. Its architectural style can be described as follows:

Roof: The gate features a traditional Korean two-tiered gabled roof (hip-and-gable style, "paljakjibung") with elegant upward curves at the corners. The roof is tiled with dark gray giwa (traditional Korean roof tiles) and decorated with ornate wooden brackets and colorful dancheong (multicolored decorative patterns). Small figurines (called japsang) line the roof ridges for protection and symbolic meaning.
Wall: The lower part of the structure is framed with solid stone walls and a red-painted wooden gatehouse. The walls on the sides are built from neatly arranged stone blocks with tiled coping, blending strength and harmony.
Floor/Base: The gate is elevated on a raised stone platform, accessed by shallow steps. This raised foundation emphasizes its status as a main entryway and provides durability against weathering.

Changdeokgung Palace

Changdeokgung Palace, located in Seoul, South Korea, holds significant historical importance as one of the "Five Grand Palaces" of the Joseon Dynasty (1392 - 1897) and a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Brief History:

Construction:
Built in 1405 during the reign of King Taejong, the third king of the Joseon Dynasty, and completed in 1412.

Purpose and Design:

It was designed as a secondary palace and is particularly renowned for its harmonious integration with the natural landscape, featuring elements like the Secret Garden (Huwon), which showcases beautifully landscaped lawns, tranquil ponds, and pavilions.

Royal Residence:

Changdeokgung served as the primary residence for many Joseon kings for over 270 years, making it a crucial center of political and cultural life during that period.

Restorations and Recognition:

The palace has undergone various restorations and reconstructions throughout its history. Its unique architectural style and natural integration led to its designation as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1997, recognizing its value as a well-preserved example of Korean palace architecture and garden design.

The price of an entrance ticket to the palace is 3,000 Korean Won per person.

The main entrance to Changdeokgung Palace, Donhwamun Gate, was used on ceremonial occasions, such as when the king went on procession. Court officials used Geumhomun Gate on the western side. Because Jongmyo Shrine had already been built directly before the palace, Donhwamun was situated in the southwesternmost part of Changdeokgung. The central part of the palace, the Injeongjeon Hall area, lies to the east and is reached by crossing Geumcheongyo Bridge after entering through the main gate. Restored in 1609, Donhwamun is a two-story wooden gate. The first level provides passage, and the upper level was used for surveillance. In front of the gate is a wide stone platform. The government office district originally extended from here all the way to Jongno Street.

This is Injeongjeon Hall, the main throne hall of Changdeokgung Palace in Seoul, Korea. Its architectural style reflects the grandeur of Joseon Dynasty palace architecture, and can be described as follows:

Roof:
The hall features a large, two-tiered hip-and-gable roof (paljakjibung), a hallmark of royal architecture, symbolizing authority and dignity. The roof tiles are traditional dark gray giwa, with upward-curving eaves and decorative ridge ornaments. The intricate dancheong (multicolored painted patterns) beneath the eaves adds both protection and elegance.
Walls:
The structure is supported by thick red-painted wooden columns and wooden lattice panels with decorative golden motifs. The side walls and connecting corridors are built with a mix of stone foundations and wooden superstructures, harmonizing strength and aesthetics.
Floor/Base:
The hall stands on a raised stone terrace with wide staircases leading to the main entrance. The courtyard in front is paved with large stone slabs, where officials would line up according to rank, marked by carved stone rank markers (pumgyeseok). This elevated stone platform emphasizes the hall’s central importance in royal ceremonies.

Changdeokgung’s Injeongjeon combines majestic multi-tiered roofing, richly decorated wooden walls, and a commanding stone-paved courtyard, embodying the authority and beauty of Joseon palace architecture.

The architectural elements of the ceiling eaves, as seen in the image, likely from a Korean palace such as Changdeokgung, prominently feature a highly decorated bracket system (Gongpo) and Dancheong patterns.
Specific Architectural Elements:

Dancheong (단청):

This refers to the traditional Korean decorative coloring found on wooden buildings, especially palaces and temples. The eaves in the image display intricate Dancheong patterns with vibrant colors like green, red, blue, and yellow, often depicting floral motifs, geometric patterns, and symbolic creatures.

Gongpo (공포) or Bracket System:
These are the elaborately carved and stacked wooden brackets that support the eaves and roof structure, transferring the weight from the roof to the columns. In the image, these brackets are visible directly beneath the roof tiles, featuring complex interlocking designs and painted in the vibrant Dancheong style.

Eaves (처마 - Cheoma):
The projecting edges of the roof are visible, designed to protect the building's walls from rain and sun, and are a characteristic feature of traditional Korean architecture.

Roof Tiles:
The dark, curved roof tiles are visible along the edge of the eaves, typical of traditional Korean tiled roofs (Giwa).

The round metal ring you see on the wooden door is a traditional Korean door handle (called munsoe / 문쇠).

Its purposes were:

Door Handle – It allowed people to easily pull or push the heavy wooden door open and closed.
Door Knocker – It could be used to announce one’s presence by knocking the ring against the door.
Locking Device – Sometimes a wooden or metal bar would be threaded through the ring (or through paired rings on double doors) to secure the entrance.

This simple yet durable design was common in Joseon-era architecture, especially in palaces, temples, and traditional hanok houses.

Thuijeonghang Hall served as an office for the king and also his bedchamber. It was destroyed by fire in 1917, and the current building was rebuilt in 1920 with materials taken from the king's residence at Gyeongbokgung Palace. As a result, the reconstructed Hujeungdang is very different from the original. In the front is a driveway for cars, and the interior is outfitted with Western furnishings, such as glum windows, electric lighting, modern bathroom facilities, and European-style furniture

Changdeokgung Palace was constructed in 1405, the fifth year of the 3rd King Taejong's reign. Secondary to Gyeongbokgung, the main palace, its completion gave balance to the capital city as Gyeongbokgung Palace was to the west and Changdeokgung Palace to the east. All of the palace buildings were destroyed by fire during the Japanese invasion of 1592. Changdeokgung was restored in 1610 and served as the main palace for 270 years, including the dynasty's last king, Sunjong. Since the palace was to the east of Gyeongbokgung, it was referred to as the "Fast Palace" together with Changgyeonggung Palace. In contrast to Gyeongbokgung, where major buildings are arranged following the main axis of the meridian, Changdeokgung is laid out in harmony with the area's topography. The palace architecture has a dissymmetric beauty that is unique to Korea. The layout of Changdeokgung is making perfect harmony with the natural background by locating buildings alongside of mountain. It influenced the layout of other major palaces. The buildings of Changdeokgung Palace, including Daejojeon, the queen's residence, were destroyed in 1917 by fire. To replace them, buildings at Gyeongbokgung Palace were dismantled and moved here. In the process, many structures were modified or damaged. Full restoration work began in 1991 and is still underway. Despite all of the damage done to the palace in years past, Changdeokgung is relatively well preserved and is representative of Korean palace architecture. The garden of Changdeokgung is one of the most enchanting spaces in Korea. The Changdeokgung Palace complex was inscribed on the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage List in 1997 for its outstanding architecture and a design that is in harmony with the landscape.

On the wide road leading to the Secret Garden used to stand Junghuidang House, one of the largest buildings in the palace. In this area was Donggang, the East Palace, a residence for the crown prince. When Crown Prince Hyomyeong, the eldest son of King Sunjo, lived here, Donggung served as the main palace. Among the many buildings at Donggung were a hexagonal pavilion, a storeroom for book collections, and a library, all of which were connected by corridors. Originally the crown prince's study room, Seongjeonggak was used as a royal hospital during the Japanese occupation.

Secret Garden Tour

The Secret Garden (Huwon, 후원) in Changdeokgung Palace is one of the most famous royal gardens in Korea, known for its natural beauty and historical significance.

Brief History:

Joseon Dynasty (1392–1897): The garden was created during the reign of King Taejong in the early 15th century, when Changdeokgung Palace was first constructed. It was designed as a private retreat exclusively for the royal family.
Purpose: Unlike formal palace spaces, Huwon was intended for rest, study, and reflection. Kings and queens enjoyed strolls here, held banquets, and even conducted military exercises or archery practice. Scholars used the pavilions for reading and writing poetry.
Design: The garden covers about 78 acres and was carefully designed to harmonize with the natural topography rather than dominate it. Pavilions, lotus ponds, and landscaped woods were arranged to appear as part of the natural scenery, reflecting Confucian ideals of simplicity and harmony with nature.
Later Periods: Over centuries, various kings added pavilions, ponds, and landscaped areas, making it a showcase of Korean garden design. Even after wars and fires damaged Changdeokgung, the garden remained one of the best-preserved royal spaces.
Modern Times: Today, the Secret Garden is a UNESCO World Heritage Site (since 1997, together with Changdeokgung Palace). Visitors can explore its serene paths, ponds like Buyongji, and iconic pavilions such as Juhamnu and Aeryeonjeong.

The Secret Garden was the royal family’s private sanctuary, blending natural landscapes with elegant architecture, and it remains one of the finest examples of traditional Korean palace gardens.

Created when Changdeokgung Palace was constructed during King Taejong's reign(1400~1418), the Secret Garden could be accessed from both Changdeokgung and Changgyeonggung palaces. During the Japanese invasion of 1592, many of the garden pavilions were destroyed. Restoration work began in 1623 and continued through the reigns of succeeding monarchs, leading to its present appearance. The Secret Garden of Changdeokgung Palace presents an exceptionally exquisite design. It is adapted to the topography, and the natural setting was accentuated by minimizing artificial landscaping. Ponds and the Ongnyucheon Stream run through the small valleys. Unlike the traditional sense of most palace gardens around the world, this secluded and wooded garden had multiple purposes, not only as a place for the composition of poems but also a venue for banquets and military drills conducted in the presence of the king. Uniquely, the king and queen also engaged in ritualistic farming and raising silkworms in the Secret Garden,

The gate in the image is the Bullomun Gate.

Location:
The Bullomun Gate is situated within the Huwon (Secret Garden) of Changdeokgung Palace in Seoul, South Korea.

Purpose:

This stone gate was constructed with the hope of wishing for the king's longevity.

Surrounding Area:

After passing through Bullomun Gate, visitors will find Aeryeonji Pond and Aeryeonjeong Pavilion, an area designed to express King Sukjong's affection for lotuses and known for its beautiful and elegant, relaxing atmosphere.

The Tale of the Cat in the Secret Garden
An orange cat is often seen wandering or resting in the Secret Garden of Changdeokgung Palace. Guides sometimes explain that the cat is believed to be waiting for its master, the King, symbolizing loyalty and eternal companionship. Even though centuries have passed since the Joseon kings lived there, the cat is said to embody the lingering presence of royalty—quietly keeping watch in the secluded garden.

Roaming around the palace

Lunchtime

Yulgok Tunnel

The Yulgok Tunnel is one of the longest road tunnels in Seoul, South Korea, running beneath Naksan Mountain and connecting the areas of Jongno-gu and Dongdaemun-gu. It was opened in 1968 and named after the famous Joseon scholar Yi I (pen name: Yulgok).

The tunnel helps ease traffic between central and eastern Seoul by providing a direct underground passage instead of going over the hilly terrain. It consists of two parallel tunnels (one for each direction) and is mainly used by vehicles, forming an important part of the city’s transportation network.

Roaming around Seoul

Bosingak Bell

Here at Bosingak stands a large bell first cast in the 10th year of King Seongjong of the Joseon Dynasty (1468). At dawn and dusk, the bell was struck to announce the opening and closing of the city gates, and to signal curfew and the start of daily activities for the people of Hanyang (old Seoul).

Originally, the bell was struck 33 times at 4 a.m. to open the gates and 28 times at 10 p.m. to close them. For centuries, its sound spread across the city, marking the rhythm of life for the citizens. However, after the Japanese colonial period, the ringing of the bell ceased, and it became silent.

Later, responding to the voices of citizens who wished to hear the bell once again, the city of Seoul restored the bell-ringing ceremony in 1984. Since then, the bell has been struck 33 times at midnight on New Year’s Eve, resonating in the hearts of citizens as a symbol of hope, peace, and reunification of the nation.

This bell is not merely a timekeeping instrument but also a cultural treasure representing the artistry of Korea’s traditional metalwork, acoustics, and science.

We dedicate this monument to honor the historic and cultural significance of the bell and to remember the efforts of those who made its restoration possible.

August 15, 1985

Bosingak Bell Restoration Committee
Chairman: Yoon Byeon
Operation Chairman: Lee Dong-han
Members: Lee Woo-seok, Yeom Bo-hyun, Kim Won-bong, Moon Tae-gang, Seok Jeong-hee, Jeong Su-chang
Seoul Newspaper, Seoul National University College of Engineering, Industrial Technology Research Center
Supervisor: Kang Chan-joon
Designer: Sung Jong-sa
Inscription written by: Lee Cheol-jeong

This inscription basically explains the historical role of the Bosingak Bell in Seoul, how it used to mark time for the whole city, how it went silent, and how it was restored as a cultural tradition in modern times.

Cheonggyecheon Stream

Cheonggyecheon Stream is a 10.9-kilometer-long waterway running through the heart of Seoul, South Korea. Today it serves as a popular public recreation space, but its history reflects the city’s transformation over centuries.

History:

Joseon Dynasty (1392–1897): The stream was originally a natural waterway that flowed through Hanyang (old Seoul). During King Taejong’s reign, it was dredged and maintained to prevent flooding and provide drainage for the growing capital. It became an important urban lifeline.
Japanese Colonial Period (1910–1945): Parts of the stream were covered with concrete to control sanitation problems, since the area around it had become overcrowded and polluted.
Post-Korean War (1950s–1970s): Rapid urbanization led to the stream being completely covered by roads and eventually an elevated highway (built in 1971), symbolizing industrial modernization.
Restoration (2003–2005): Under Seoul Mayor (later President) Lee Myung-bak, the elevated highway was removed and the stream was restored as part of a massive urban renewal project. The restoration reintroduced flowing water, greenery, pedestrian pathways, and historical markers.

Today:
Cheonggyecheon is a major cultural and ecological attraction, featuring walking paths, bridges, art installations, and seasonal events like the lantern festival. It symbolizes Seoul’s balance between modernization and preservation of history, as well as a model for urban renewal worldwide.

Gwangjang Market

Gwangjang Market is a haven of affordable yet delicious Korean street food. You can choose from a variety of noodles, pastries, and other delicacies.

The stall is selling the popular Korean street food 꽈배기 (kkwabaegi), which is a twisted doughnut.

꽈배기 (kkwabaegi) → A deep-fried, twisted bread made from soft dough.
It’s coated in sugar (and sometimes cinnamon or powdered peanuts).
Light, fluffy inside with a slightly chewy texture.
Traditionally enjoyed as a nostalgic Korean snack, often paired with warm milk or coffee.